Dents aren't just cosmetic. A hard dent can stretch metal, distort body lines, and create tension that causes future cracking or edge lifting if the repair is rushed. The cheap approach is "pull and fill." The correct approach is restoring shape with controlled metalwork so the repair stays stable and the panel looks right under reflection.
We assess dent depth, creasing, edge proximity, and whether the impact affected mounts or adjacent panels. Then we choose the right method: careful pulling, shaping, and metal finishing. Filler, if used, is kept thin and sealed properly, because heavy filler is where shrink lines and future problems come from.
Dent repair also has a matching problem: texture and sheen. Even if the panel is straight, a sloppy blend or mismatched gloss gives the repair away immediately in sunlight. We plan the repair so the finish disappears.
If the goal is "you can't find it," the steps matter more than the tools.
We fix damage from accidents and collisions with the same rule as restoration: fix the foundation first, then match the finish. No "close enough" shortcuts that show up later.
Collision damage lies. A dented fender can hide bent brackets, shifted gaps, torn mounting points, and underlying metal fatigue. We inspect the impact path, mounting structure, panel alignment, and prior repair work to scope the real job.
The best dent repair is the one that doesn't rely on inches of filler. We use controlled pulling, shaping, and metal finishing to restore the panel's true contour and keep the repair stable for the long term.
If the gaps are off, the car looks wrong from ten feet away, even with perfect paint. We correct alignment and fitment before refinishing so panels sit right and hardware mounts correctly.
The paint is the final layer, not the fix. We build a stable finish system (seal, prime, block, spray, cure, correct), then match color and sheen so the repair doesn't "broadcast" itself in sunlight.
You're not trying to become an insurance expert. You just need to know what the repair actually involves and what it's likely to cost. We focus on fast clarity: scope, options, and realistic numbers.
A clear repair plan and a range you can actually use, so you can decide quickly what's worth doing and what isn't.
Most claims should be simple. But classic cars can turn "simple" into a fight, especially when the other side tries to treat your car like a commodity. If things start getting weird, you need to recognize it early.
We document damage, provide clear repair rationale, and support estimate clarity so you can make informed decisions quickly. If it escalates beyond repair logistics into disputes, that's when legal counsel may be appropriate.
Paint is the last step. The repair is everything underneath it. Here's the actual sequence.
Photos, gap checks, impact-path assessment, and identification of hidden damage. Document now so it's not "discovered" later.
Define what gets repaired vs replaced, parts strategy, finish strategy (blend vs panel), and realistic timeline.
Remove trim, lighting, bumpers, and adjacent parts as needed to access the true damage and avoid masking problems.
Restore structure, mount points, and panel geometry. Test-fit and correct gaps before surface build begins.
Strip to the correct level, clean contamination, address corrosion, and prep for adhesion. This prevents later lifting and bubbling.
Epoxy primer to seal and stabilize, followed by high-build systems as needed for straightness and uniform surface.
Blocking stages to bring the panel back to true. Reflection checks ensure the repair disappears in sunlight.
Match color and sheen against adjacent panels. Choose blend boundaries that make the repair invisible, not "almost invisible."
Controlled spray and cure schedule, then correction (cut and polish) for uniform reflections and finish consistency.
Fitment checks, gaps, hardware, trim alignment, and finish inspection. The car leaves tight, clean, and correct.
