Refinishing a classic car is not a cosmetic decision. It's a structural, chemical, and historical one. Every surface tells you what it can tolerate. Knowing what to do, how to do it, and when not to do it is what you're paying for.
"You're buying judgment. Anyone can spray paint. Restoration is sequencing, materials, and knowing what not to touch."
Classic car refinishing, vintage paint restoration, show car paint, metal finishing, and period-correct color matching.
This is where restorations are won or ruined. The goal isn't shine. It's consistency, durability, and correctness.
Not every car should be stripped to bare metal, and not every panel that looks solid actually is. We evaluate factory coatings, prior repairs, filler depth, corrosion patterns, and metal fatigue before committing to a stripping method.
True refinishing starts long before primer. We metal-finish panels to reduce filler dependency, restore original body lines, and maintain factory geometry. Excessive filler always fails eventually.
Modern epoxy primers outperform anything available when these cars were new, but only when applied correctly and at the right stage. We use epoxy systems to chemically seal bare metal and lock out moisture.
Skipping or misapplying this step is one of the most common reasons restorations fail years later.
Straight panels don't happen by accident. High-build primers are applied and block-sanded in multiple stages to ensure flatness, symmetry, and consistent reflections across every surface.
Paint selection is driven by use case, not trends. Single-stage systems can be period-correct; basecoat/clearcoat systems deliver UV resistance, durability, and repairability for driven cars.
Often the right call for vintage correctness and authentic look.
Strong durability, UV resistance, and easier spot repair down the line.
Choosing the wrong system can compromise authenticity or longevity. We make that call based on the vehicle, its era, and how it will be used.
Factory color codes are a starting point, not a guarantee. Aging, pigment changes, and prior refinishing all affect final appearance. We match finishes to period-correct standards while accounting for modern materials.
The goal is a finish that looks right in the real world, not just on a paint chip.
Final finishing is where discipline shows. Controlled curing, precision cut-and-polish work, and surface refinement produce depth and clarity without thinning the paint system.
The goal isn't shine. It's consistency, durability, and correctness.
Most restoration failures don't show up immediately. They appear years later as cracking, bubbling, shrinking filler, or mismatched panels. Refinishing is about making sure it still looks right ten years from now.
We're not selling a "paint job." We're building a stable, correct finish system from the substrate up. That means decisions, sequencing, documentation, and quality controls.
Evaluate existing coatings, prior repair work, corrosion, panel fitment, and finish goals (driver vs show vs concours).
Choose stripping method based on substrate risk. Plan metal finishing and correction before primer ever touches the car.
Seal bare metal with epoxy systems. Build correct primer stack for stability, adhesion, and long-term corrosion resistance.
Guide coats, blocking stages, and symmetry checks. If it isn't straight here, it will never be straight.
Choose single-stage or base/clear based on correctness and use. Match color with real-world validation, not wishful thinking.
Controlled cure schedule, correction, and final finishing. Deliver a finish that stays stable and looks right for years.
If you're comparing quotes, you need to compare processes. "Paint" isn't a spec. The system underneath it is.
No. Bare metal isn't a badge of honor. It's a risk decision. The right approach depends on existing coatings, prior repairs, corrosion, and the stability of what's already there.
"Better" depends on your goals. Single-stage can be period-correct and visually authentic. Base/clear is typically more durable and easier to repair. We choose based on era, usage, and finish expectations.
Usually it's moisture, contamination, incompatible products, poor cure times, or excessive filler. Those problems are baked into the layers below the paint, and they take time to show themselves.
Driver finishes prioritize durability and easy maintenance. Show finishes demand tighter tolerances, more blocking stages, and deeper final correction for uniform reflections under harsh lighting.
